Inside Profile

AFRICA CALLING

Zebras at dusk, moonlight over the Zambezi, ‘rock star’ rangers and roasted wildebeest. Just some of the highlights of Leader Editor Gina McAdam’s recent trip to Africa. The hotels were incredible too...

‘Arrive in awe. Depart thunderstruck.’

That’s the promise beneath Hotel Manager Giulio Togni’s official welcome to the Royal Livingstone hotel in Victoria Falls, Zambia. His hotel is part of a World Heritage Site, part of the Mosi-oa-Tunya (‘The Smoke that Thunders’) National Wildlife Park and the best place to survey the Zambezi River cradling a double G&T. Now that’s awesome.

We’d arrived in mid-August, a party of thirteen, at the first stop of a fortnight’s voyage through Zambia and South Africa. Having flown into Livingstone on a transfer flight from Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International Airport, we were still delirious from our long-haul journeys from London, Hong Kong, Minneapolis and Manila.

A private coach arranged by luxury ecotourism specialists Wilderness Safaris and Hong Kong-based A to A: Asia to Africa Safaris whisked us through Livingstone’s dusty, bumpy roads (‘Enjoy your African massage!’ laughs Rafael, our guide and driver) towards our ultimate destination along the banks of the Zambezi. Alas, along the way I was just too tired to take in the local history patter, although one did manage to catch the name of Dr David Livingstone time and again and how the mythical Scottish explorer had all but discovered Africa for the world. I was simply too transfixed by the fact of actually being there.

Colonial elegance

The only word to naturally describe the Royal Livingstone is elegant, but in the best British tradition, understatedly so. A doorman, flushed, friendly and redolent in scarlet turban and tunic was waiting to grasp our hands tightly and usher us into the sprawling reception area. Once checked-in, we were led to one of the handsomest bar and lounge areas I’ve ever seen, which opened up to a vast veranda, surrounded by acacia trees, overlooking the river and the mists and sprays (the thunder) of Victoria Falls. Whilst some of us opted for a postprandial cocktail – I chose Nyami-Nyami, named after the infamous River God of the Zambezi and a delicate blend of cane spirit, blue curacao and orange juice – others accepted the free hand massages so gentle they could lull you to sleep, hinting at spa delights to come.

Fun for everyone

The size and configuration of our party meant that all of our seven rooms were within the same two-storey cluster of suites. We had our own private butlers, immaculate in cream and cravats. I made the cardinal mistake of trying to transfer a valise to another room, two steps away. So unnecessary.

I suspect most people go to Livingstone with the sole purpose of following the trail of the good doctor or enjoying the magnificent activities lined up by Sun International, owners of the Royal Livingstone and the nearby Zambezi Sun (only several roaming giraffes and a Segway away – that’s a sort of front-tyre scooter you stand on that moves when you throw your weight forward).

After a morning spent visiting Victoria Falls, standing barely 60 metres from one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World and gazing across a gorge to Zimbabwe, we were offered the opportunity to enjoy the view from a different angle. Micro light or helicopter at 6.30 a.m? Some of my party like to live dangerously, but I chose a lie-in instead.

Sundowners

I did join them for the river safari cruise on the Zambezi. From the safety of our motorboat, fortified with G&T’s and the local Mosi beer, we watched as families of elephants and giraffes sauntered through rocks and caught glimpses of baby crocodile and iguana on the river bank. We were impressed by their obliviousness; they just carried on with stately grace. It wasn’t going to be our last time to feel like interlopers.
We moored by an islet for our first real Sundowner: barbecued meats, chicken wings and samosas and more Mosi beer , watching the climax of the famous African sunset.

The art of living well

A wonderful experience, but nonetheless it was heaven to return to the Royal Livingstone, laze on the sundeck, giggle at the monkeys swinging above us and await dinner and the flavours of Zambia.

What struck me more than the novelty of African food for the first time – battered fresh kapenta served with tomato relish and salad; Zambian chicken stew with chibwabwa leaves in peanut butter sauce and nshima – was the menu. It displayed photos of the different chefs next to a description of their creations. So, for example, Kenneth Kanguya from North-Western province cooked the Zambezi Bream, the most sought after fish in Zambia caught in the Zambezi River, and best pan-friend or boiled with onion and tomato. What a brilliant idea! Kenneth also has the most charming smile.

Meals transported you to a bygone era. Our waiters, normally so placid, cried ‘Voila!’ as, be it breakfast, lunch or dinner, they lifted the heavy silver covers from our plates. At breakfast, you might have chosen The Chief Mukuni, featuring grain-filled fillet of beef, with your cup of Rooibos tea. For an instant, even as you’re surrounded by Prada, Berghaus and padded vests, you actually believe you’re living in another time.
One evening, a herd of zebras appeared suddenly through the trees and walked nonchalantly towards us as we sat at our private terrace. They stopped right next to my feet. My son and nephew found impalas in the dark, close to the swimming pool. It was so unreal.

A glimpse of grace

We said farewell to Livingstone, but not before saying hello and thanking the ebullient Giulio Togni who clapped and waved and posed for pictures with us and the African chorus bidding us goodbye. A happy man who obviously loves his job, I thought.

Then it was back to Johannesburg and on to Rosebank, a stylish enclave where we stopped overnight at The Grace in Rosebank, GM Bill Frohlich’s handsome boutique hotel not far from Nelson Mandela’s home. The hotel itself is reminiscent of an old colonial townhouse that wouldn’t have been out of place in the genteel urban neighbourhoods of the American south. With what little time we had, we were at least able to explore the mall next door and enjoy the softest towels and a wonderful cooked breakfast at the fourth floor ‘Dining Room’. But what I appreciated most was the free Wi-Fi, and took full advantage by sending brief e-mails to London. Mark Norris, CEO of Profile, wrote back, ‘Enjoy the experience!’ Thank goodness for fellow wandering souls.

Rock stars

The next few days all but disappeared in a blur of sunrise to sunset safaris at MalaMala Main Camp, one of the Rattray Group’s historic properties within the Sabi Sand Game Reserve. Both Matt and Mike, our assigned rangers, proudly pointed out that this was where most National Geographic films were made, an hour-long programme taking as long as two years to film or more. Indeed, we waited almost two hours for a leopard to make a move on a herd of kudu. We did see the Big Five – leopard, lion, buffalo, rhino, elephant – even racing a rhino on our amazing Land Rover Destroyer, which all but pulverised the bush.

I read somewhere that safari rangers are the new ‘rock stars’ of Africa. I’m not surprised. These are young, bright, friendly prep-school types – at MalaMala certainly -- who answer the call of ‘every boy’s dream’, as Mike from Durban told us. Almost all of their rangers have degrees in wildlife conservation, as Tom Bloy, the Camp Manager, was keen to point out. But they also know their wines, as they served and sat with us at every meal extolling the virtues of one vintage over another around a campfire in a traditional ’buma’.

Matt said it wasn’t the type of career his parents would have wanted for him, but he loved it, with its opportunities for meeting new people from around the world and the chance to display one’s passion for animals and the environment. Why did this all sound so familiar somehow? I’d followed the same line of conversation and heard the same passion in my chats with chefs throughout the years. And aren’t chefs supposed to be the new rock stars too?

Now one thing I noticed at both the Royal Livingstone and MalaMala -- where we were housed in an enormous air-conditioned cottage almost the size of a basketball court with not one, but two bathrooms – every evening on the pillows of our turned down beds, instead of the usual truffle or milk chocolate, lay a perfectly ironed bookmark. Very clever, something to take away.

Three reasons

Our last stop, Cape Town, is memorable for all the expected reasons – Long Street, Bo-Kaap, Table Mountain, penguins, vineyards, the Cape, the similarities of the terrain to parts of Wales, Scotland and my beloved Northumberland. All these apart, three things stand out.

One, the most fantastic service at Constantia Uitsig Restaurant, at the hotel and spa of the same name on a working vineyard in the Constantia Valley. Chef and Manager Clayton Bell prepares some wonderful Provencal dishes. And the waiting staff didn’t seem to care that we were taking ages to order, and that was just my brother selecting his wine. The room service wasn’t bad either. I still sigh when I recall the knock at the door of our Victorian Room every morning at 7.30 and the freshly ground black coffee and biscuits laid silently on the table by a demure member of staff.

Two, the incredible five-course ‘Tasting Menu’ including roasted wildebeest loin, at Le Quartier Francais’ Tasting Room in Franschhoek. A member of Relais & Chateaux, it was recently named one of the 50 best restaurants in the world by the S. Pelligrino guide. It was certainly worth the hour and a half’s drive at dusk. We had the chance to meet Executive Chef Margot Janse, one of South Africa’s foremost chefs, who we thanked for making a senior member of the family’s milestone birthday so memorable.

And three, stepping into the urban waterfront resort of One&Only Capetown.

One and only

Before leaving on this trip, I’d asked friends who’d been to Cape Town where I had to go. One of them, married to a Hollywood producer who’d recently wrapped up filming in the city, insisted that I simply had to visit this brand new luxury hotel by the marina. Knowing my family, they’d doubtless be shopping at the nearby V & A Waterfront anyway. As luck would have it -- even as I’d previously arranged to drop in and say hello -- our private tour guide also happened to be a personal friend of GM Tony Romer-Lee.

So it was that I came to see and understand what everyone was talking about: Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s nineteenth Nobu restaurant and Gordon Ramsey’s Maze (which was really quite full for 11.30 a.m.). It was great to hear from Tony how everything was going to plan, with the Island Rooms and One&Only Spa helping to make this hotel the destination in Cape Town. He graciously offered to arrange a tour for us around his hotel – I hope he will do so again, for another issue of Leader!

Africa calling

The author Isak Dinesen, the ‘Happy Valley’ stalwarts of the twenties and thirties, and countless adventurers and missionaries before and after them all discovered in Africa a space they couldn’t leave or forget, returning to the continent if only in their dreams. They came for the fine people, the languid pace, and to prove themselves equal to the customs, climate and overall challenge. Even the legendary hotelier Harry Murray MBE returned to Africa twice (Ed’s note – see ‘A Leader & A Gentleman’ in this Leader issue). Others I’m sure have gone to stay.

Me? Even now, so many weeks later, I’m still standing on a sundeck with my family, gazing out at the Zambezi and clutching a G&T.